Jar Terrariums

Terrariums are actually enclosed dish/Jar gardens. They are sort of mini greenhouse where plants thrive little care. A terrarium is a great eye catching gift to give some one who enjoys growing plants. Clear glass jar fish bowls, old fashioned candy jar that can be closed or covered with a clear material make good container.

Here is the list of tropical and native plants that grows very well in a terrarium:

Aluminum plant, Ardisia, baby's tears, Chinese Evergreen, Creeping Fig, Corn Plant, Dwarf English Ivy, Dwarf Kangaroo Wine, Ferns, Flame Voilet, Japanese Aucuba, Japanese boxwood, Josephls coat, Kenilworth ivy, Korean Boxwood, Marantha, Pellionia, Peperomia, Philodendron, Selanginella, Small leafed begonias, Strawberry Begonia, Swedish Ivy

Before starting a Terrarium check on the type of plant and container. There are varieties of house plant are available. Fast growing a tropical plants are not recommended for a small terrarium. Note that plants grows on one of the three ways - upright, rosette, or vinning. The corn plant grows upright, in rosette (cluster of leaves) like strawberry begonia, and the third are like long vine like Ivies. Thus place plants in the terrarium accordingly.

• In a terrarium always keep plants of one type either tropical or native. Secondly do not over crowd them. A small figure, a lichen covered rock, an interesting piece of rock, or a root can be a center of interest. A few plants pleasantly arranged are more satisfactory.

• Do not let water stand in terrarium. Remove the cover and let the excess water evaporate. Terrarium needs only one to two spoon of water in a month.

• Place terrarium in a light place and enjoy them all year round. Make sure keep them away from direct sunlight.

Assembling a Terrarium

1. First and fore most important thing is to choose a container to use. If you are planning to buy a second hand container, make sure it does not leak.

2. Mix Charcoal, gravel. Fill the container for about 1" inch, this would allow the oxygen go deep with the container.

3. Add a layer of coarse sand and soil. It is important for the oxygen to move around.

4. Now add the plants in your terrarium. Create little pockets t place the plants. Always place big plants before the little one.

5. Once you are finished by placing the plants just add one to two spoon of water to keep the soil moist.

6. Cover the terrarium by the lid. The water will recycle itself into the air. The transpired water will moist the soil.

Dish Terriraum

DISH TERRARIUM

Suggested Materials:

Small Plants and Flowers

Dish (any size but usually bigger is better)

Spaghnum or Spanish Moss (in bag)

Potting Soil (in the plastic container)

Small stones for drainage

Tools - spoon and fork are good

Place a layer of stones on the bottom of the dish. One to two inches deep is sufficient. If you are using a very deep bowl or dish you may want to go 3-4 inches deep. Just leave enough room in the dish for plenty of soil. This layer of stone will allow your terrarium to drain properly and will help to prevent overwatering.

Place a layer of Spanish Moss or Spaghnum Moss over the stones. This will allow water to drain down into the bottom while prohibiting the soil from settling down. This is optional but if you have very sensitive plants like some types of flowers this will help to avoid any root rot.

Before you start placing your plants in the dish you may want to place them together on a table and move them around to look for a pleasing arrangement. Imagine how they might look in the dish. Use the variety of shapes and sizes in your arrangement. A variety of heights and widths can make a very pleasant arrangement. Also, in general, you want to use plants in odd numbers. Three of five plants are usually better than two or four.

Remove a plant from its pot and tear it apart. This potted Palm has a variety of plants so we will use only a few of them in our terrarium. This palm is the tallest plant that we are using so I will place it in the back of the dish. This makes a nice background and will give us a pleasing arrangement. If the roots have taken up much of the pot use a pair of scissors to trim them down.

Place the plant in the dish right on top of the moss. I have chosen to place this plant in the back section of the dish. It will make a nice backdrop.

Continue placing your plants. Remember to trim them down and if the roots are out of control use a pair of scissors to trim the roots down too. Notice how I have placed the plants. They make a nice arrangement with the tallest in the back and the shortest in the front. The red Croton plant adds a nice splash of color to the arrangement.

Bonsai Art of Shaping - Bud Prunning

Bud pruning is often done along with branch pruning. Like the branch pruning, bud prunning is done when working with a developed tree. Both aim to harmonize and perfect the final form of the bonsai. Sometimes bud pruning is preferable to branch pruning. Consider the benefits and drawbacks of both before choosing what to prune.

When To Choose Bud Pruning

Bud pruning is preferable to branch pruning in a couple of situations.

•  If the bonsai already has a completed form, then branch prunning can damage that form. At the same time Pruning the buds will allows you to maintain the form without extra growth.
• Pruning the buds is also preferable if your goal is to suppress branch growth without pruning it.

There are several other reasons for choosing to prune buds. If your deciduous tree already has attractive branches and lush foliage, you will want to preserve that. Bud pruning is preferable to retain the tree’s beauty. With coniferous trees, bud pruning is sometimes used instead of leaf pruning because the latter can damage the tree’s growth and compromise the quality of the leaves produced.

Timing For Bud Pruning

Buds should be pruned as they emerge. This is typically in the spring. Some trees have an extended season of budding which can last from spring until autumn. For these trees, buds need to be monitored and pruned as necessary for the entire period of budding.

Bud pruning should be avoided in some circumstances.

• Avoid pruning an unhealthy plant or one that has been weakened such as in the immediate period after being repotted.
• Also avoid bud pruning if you are still thickening the trunk or want specific branches to thicken. The buds require extra water and nutrients to grow, and the trunk and branches thicken to accommodate the transport of those nutrients.

The Process Of Bud Pruning

Bud pruning is done by pinching the buds off by hand or pruning with scissors. Choose the prunning by hand or sissor depending upon the location of bud. It is important to remove the undesired buds when they emerge. It also helps control the size of the tree and uniformity of its growth. 

Bud pruning should be focused on the older branches near the top of the tree. Pruning near the bottom should be restrained if you choose to prune in that location. Make sure that the plant has been adequately fertilized and watered both before and after the bud pruning process. 

Bud Pruning For Deciduous And Coniferous Trees

Bud pruning for deciduous trees is a fairly straightforward process. Because of the annual cycle of new foliage, it makes it easier to determine when to remove buds. Bud pruning occurs in the early spring, when the buds first emerge and before the leaves come out. 

Coniferous trees include many popular pine varieties that are often used in bonsai. Coniferous trees require bud pruning twice a year, when they first emerge in spring and in the early summer when a new round of budding occurs after the first pruning. Buds will continue to form even after the second pruning, emerging all the way until autumn. The dual pruning sessions creates a shorter growth period for the buds on the tree. This is desirable for bonsai growth, since it will create smaller leaves that are appropriate for the bonsai’s size. Encourage the new bud growth by pruning leaves if necessary to provide better access to sunlight and ventilation.

Bonsai Art of Shaping - Branch Prunning

Pruning is the process of cutting away unnecessary growth on the bonsai. Branches, buds and leaves are pruned. This controls the progress of the bonsai’s development, allowing you to mold the developing tree as needed and later maintain its mature form. Branch pruning is especially essential to create and preserve the bonsai’s form.

With the basic goal in mind, focus can be placed on the specific aim of branch pruning. The most obvious result of pruning is to remove extraneous and unattractive budding limbs and more mature branches. Prunning removes the branches that do not contribute to the Bonsai shape. It also provide space and light to the inner, smaller branches and buds.

If you are thinking of stengthing your bonsai plant trunk, then prun the branches right above the trunk. This would also change the direction of the trunk.

Give special care to the flowering and fruit giving trees. Pruning the buds will also inhibit the flower or fruit growth. Consider your goals and your tree’s needs when deciding whether to remove those buds.

The Importance Of Lateral Buds

Lateral buds are the emerging branches growing off of existing branches. Because they will mature into new branches that can be molded into harmony with the bonsai’s design. When pruning, examine the lateral buds and predict their future growth. Maintain lateral buds on the pruned branches which you anticipate will add to the bonsai’s form. If the branch does not have any lateral buds and is not growing in harmony with the tree’s shape, prune it back to the trunk.

Choosing Which Branches To Remove

In general, prune the branches which do not contribute to the structure and beauty of the tree. This can include branches growing in the wrong direction and oversized or overly thickened branches.

Choosing The Right Time For Branch Pruning

Branch pruning is unnecessary for young trees. Early, the priority is root, nebari and trunk development. After that, branch growth needs to be encouraged so that the basic form of the tree can take shape. This growth can be assisted by wiring the trunk and branches. Branch pruning is the beginning of the “fine tuning” process of creating your bonsai.

Branch pruning is a stressful event to the plant, so it should be avoided during summer and winter.

The type of plant is also a consideration when choosing when to prune. Deciduous trees are ideally pruned in spring when leaves are not on the branches and new growth has not begun for the year. Coniferous trees should be pruned at the end of the plant’s dormant period for the year. This is usually sometime between autumn and early winter. It needs to be done before freezing begins.

Pruning should be done with a concave branch cutter or pruning shears. Whichever is used, it should be sharpened to provide the cleanest, least damaging cuts. The cut should not be allowed to remain open. It can be sealed with a drop of glue, paste or sealant. Once sealed, the cut should heal quickly and growth will no longer occur at the site.

Bonsai Art of Shaping - Wring

Wiring allows you to control the growth of your maturing tree. Wires are wrapped around the developing trunk and branches to guide their growth into the desired shape. Wiring can begin once the roots of the tree have been established and the trunk is beginning to grow. It is an ongoing process that is done in stages and with multiple branches.

Benefits Of Bonsai Wiring

A devleping tree get two types of benefits from wiring.  The wiring can help to change the tree in a desired form, as the tress will not grow on its own in the desired form. Another benefits of wiring is it would allow the growth of the tree, you can mold the growth into various style. the style which are not the natural form like slanting. Wiring also help the three aesthetically, making a bonsai uniquely beautiful in many ways, that would not be able to acheive in its natural form.

Types Of Wire Used In Bonsai Artistry

Typically the wire are used in bonsai are copper or aluminim. The wire should be approx 1/3 the diameter of the branch or the trunk. Note both these wire have their pros and cons, so choose wisely.

As Copper wire is stronger than aluminum and, because of that, holds its form and stays in place better than aluminum. Because of that, it can damage the branches and trunk if not carefully monitored for cutting into the plant. If you use copper wire, you should monitor the growth and condition of the wired parts weekly. Since the potential for damage is greater with copper wire than aluminum.

Aluminum wire is easier to move and manipulate. Because of its easy flexibility, though, it is not as sturdy as copper wire. Aluminum wire only needs to be monitored every two weeks.

Both beginners and seasoned bonsai lovers may prefer aluminum wire because of the greater ease of use compared to copper. Both wires will accomplish good results. Never the less which wire type is chosen,  a careful observation of the tree and good wiring techniques are necessary.

Determining The Right Time To Wire

 To have desired results the wring should be done at a early and healthy state of plant. Typically wiring is done when the plant is repotted for better growth and support.  In fact choosing the right time for the wring also depends on the type of plant, since the wring time for deciduous and confiferous trees differ.

  

Deciduous trees are wired in the early spring. They need to be timed before new budding begins on the limbs. Wiring at this time gives you the best visualization of the trunk and branches before the leaves and new growth emerges. You can see the limbs clearly and apply the wiring without new leaves and branches getting in the way.

Coniferous trees are wired in the late autumn or early winter. Because coniferous trees cyclically renew their foliage annually, the limbs are always populated with a certain amount of foliage. So, unlike deciduous trees, bare limbs are not a consideration. Rather, wiring is performed when the sap is lowest in the branches. The branches are more flexible and respond better to wiring when the sap is low.

Avoid wiring a plant that is unhealthy. Likewise, do not wire weak branches. Spend some time nourishing the plant and improving its vitality before wiring. Also avoid wiring a plant that is freshly watered. The limbs are most flexible when they are moderately dehydrated. Poor flexibility of the limbs increases the likelihood of limb damage or breakage.

The Wiring Process

Wiring requires patient, deliberate application of the wire. Take your time, and be very careful about supporting the plant throughout the process. As you apply the wire, hold the limb in both hands and remember to bend the wire to the branch and not the other way around.

While wiring, begin with the trunk and then progress from the thickest branches to the thinnest. Bend the wire up the trunk and outwards on the branches, from the trunk to the tip. Position yourself so that you are wiring towards yourself. This will give you the maximum control and allow you to evenly wrap the wire.

The wire should be wrapped around the limbs at a 45 degree angle in a “barber pole” fashion. The wire should form to the limb and guide its direction, but it should not be overly tight. Remember that your plant is growing and needs space for its increasing size. The wires will be guiding growth in unnatural directions, too. The plant will want to continue to grow to its original direction at first, and if the wire is too tight, it will cut into the plant. Precise but loosely wrapped limbs will help avoid these problems.

Anchoring will provide stability and prevent crossed wires or excess tension on individual limbs. The trunk’s wire should begin with a firm foundation in the soil. It should feel steady with a moderate amount of wiggling. Once steadied, the trunk can be wired. Begin at a tight angle as the wire emerges from the ground, and then sustain the wiring at a 45 degree angle. Branches are anchored by winding the end of the wire closest to the trunk around the wire supporting the trunk.

The 45 degree angle guideline for wrapping the wire can be adjusted if the limb has a sharp bend in it. Wind the wire at a smaller angle as you work past the turn. This will provide the additional support needed to straighten the bend.

You can use the same continuous piece of wire on two branches if they are both of the same thickness. Anchor the wire around the trunk to secure and balance the wiring. Do not attempt with branches of markedly different thicknesses. Use separate wires for each. If dealing with a particularly strong branch, you can use two or three wires winded together and for extra strength and support.

Removing The Wire

The wire can be removed when it has achieved its purpose and helped the trunk or branch grow in the desired direction. Wire should also be removed if it begins to grow into the plant. Gently cut off the wire with wire cutters. Do not attempt to unwind the wire from the limb or reuse wire. Attempting this can damage the plant and even break the branch. Wire is plentiful and easily replaced. Your bonsai is not.

The Art of Shaping a Bonsai

A successful bonsai is the product of careful care and shaping. It is an art form which requires a great deal of attention to the growing form of the tree.   

There are several points to consider when working with your bonsai. To begin with; it is important to develop a sturdy foundation. Proper root and trunk growth is critical to a successful, healthy bonsai.

From here, attention to focus on the limbs. When working with the branches of your bonsai, we will do two basic things, wiring and pruning. Wiring helps mold the form of the developing tree into the desired mature form. Pruning, meanwhile, allows you to manipulate the growth and refine the form of branches and leaves. Individual focus is placed on the pruning of branches, buds and leaves.

The Roots Of The Bonsai

The roots of the bonsai are composed of the exposed surface roots and the underground root structure. The external roots are called the nebari. Cultivating a proper nebari is crucial to proper bonsai growth and appearance. If working with an older plant, you will have to take special steps to restructure the nebari if it did not originally grow in a proper fashion. Subsurface roots will need to be pruned for optimal root growth.

The Trunk Of The Bonsai

Once the root structure and nebari are adequately developed, focus can shift to creating a powerful trunk. The trunk should be characteristic of its full-sized counterpart, keeping with the goal of keisho-sodai. Several qualities are essential to good trunk formation, and careful crafting will aid in forming the ideal trunk. The two elements of trunk development that are most important to consider are the trunk’s kokejun and tachiagari.

Bonsai Wiring

Wiring allows you to control the growth of your maturing tree. Wires are wrapped around the developing trunk and branches to guide their growth into the desired shape. Wiring can begin once the roots of the tree have been established and the trunk is beginning to grow. It is an ongoing process that is done in stages and with multiple branches.

Branch Pruning

Pruning is the process of cutting away unnecessary growth on the bonsai. Branches, buds and leaves are pruned. This controls the progress of the bonsai’s development, allowing you to mold the developing tree as needed and later maintain its mature form. Branch pruning is especially essential to creating and preserving the bonsai’s form.

Bud Pruning

Bud pruning is often done in conjunction with branch pruning. Like with branch pruning, it is done when working with a developed tree. Both aim to harmonize and perfect the final form of the bonsai. Sometimes bud pruning is preferable to branch pruning. Consider the benefits and drawbacks of both before choosing what to prune.

Leaf Pruning

While bud pruning is predominantly performed on coniferous trees, leaf pruning is mostly used on deciduous trees. Pruning the leaves offers several benefits. It improves sunlight penetration and ventilation to the emerging buds and smaller branches and leaves, which encourages and accelerates growth. Leaf turnover can be rapid, which can aid in recovering from pest infestation. Leaf pruning also aids in branch and bud pruning, allowing better visualization of the tree’s trunk and limb.

Physiology Of Shaping

All of the efforts involved in creating a bonsai rely on a basic understanding of plant physiology. You need to understand how a plant grows and the factors which affect that growth in order to shape your tree as desired. The art of bonsai is creating a pleasing balance of form. The science of bonsai is the physiology of shaping.

Humity Tray for Bonsai

When ever caring for a bonsai tree or garden is talk about, people often focus on the tools and methods for shaping and arranging, where very little consideration given to watering and managing soil. But once a garden is in place, water or moisture is the only things that will keep it living.

Bonsai Juniper on Humidity Tray

Managing the hydration levels of the plants and soil is essential to keep the environment from getting too dry or too saturated. Too much or too little water can kill the your plant quickly.

There are variety of factors that will help you to determine how often and how much to water your bonsai trees. As there is no regular routine watering. Aa a  gardener you have to have all of the  relevant  facts about  the bonsai tree and its moisture needs.

- The type and the size of tree is very important is an essential aspect.

- The time of year and local climate (inside and out) will affect the watering amount and schedule.

- The type of soil is also a pivotal consideration.

Once all of these have been addressed, then it is up to you to keep a attention to your bonsai plant for its individual needs and patterns. The most basic information is to know when the soil is dry and water it accordingly.

Another importamt aspect to control water levels is for humidity or the dirp tray. All bonsai pots, regardless of size, have holes in the bottom. So, a humidity or drip tray is important to protect the surfaces of whatever the pot is placed upon. It is also helpful to make the optimum environment for the tree. Leaving at least some of the water in the drip tray allows for evaporation that will result in increased humidity in the air.

There are trays to fit every type of pot, size, material and style to fit the space where the bonsai garden is. Trays come in a wide variety of shapes as well. They can be ceramic, plastic and even marble. Oval, rectangular, square and round are all popular shapes for the drip trays. The sizes range from as small as 6 or 7” in diameter, to as big as 2’. They can be selected practically to contain and distribute water or aesthetically to make the bonsai garden look more distinct.

Popular Bonsai Styles

Popular Bonsai Trees Styles and Specimen

While Bonsai in general can be a very straightforward discipline when it comes to its guidelines and principles, this form of art sports an unexpected variety of styles in which gardeners choose how to shape their Bonsai. Here are the most representative ones.

Formal upright: A Bonsai with straight tapering trunk.

Informal upright: A Bonsai that grows mostly straight upwards but that shows slight curves.

 Raft: Bonsai with sinuous or slanting trunks.

Literati: A Bonsai which branches have been reduced to a minimum

 Cascade: Two of the most beautiful styles. Molded after trees that grow over cascades or at the sides of mountains. In these styles the tip of the Bonsai bends over and even falls below the base of the pot

Slanting: These are Bonsai with trunks that are straight, but that come out of the soil already at an angel

Forest: As its name states, this style encompasses many trees, which together should resemble a small forest.

Bonsai is a discipline, and those who start to learn about the cultures and principles behind it are bound to find themselves absorbed in a practice that carries centuries of tradition behind it and that in most cases, will change, shape and help the artist grow in even more drastic ways that the trees that he helps achieve their true potential.

 

Bonsai Tree Technique

Bonsai Trees Techniques

As mentioned before, one of the most important elements of growing a Bonsai is its style and its overall design. There are many techniques that can be used in order to give a Bonsai any particular style, and which gardeners choose from in order to bring to life their vision of how they want their Bonsai to look like.

• Leaf trimming: This entails the removal of specific leaves or needles from the trunk and branches of the Bonsai.
• Pruning: This technique is used to take care of all the elements of the Bonsai tree, including trunk, branches and roots of the candidate tree.
• Wiring: This is one of the most important techniques for growing Bonsai, since it is used by the gardener to define the overall form of the Bonsai, as well as to direct the placement of branches and leaves.
• Clamping: Here gardeners use mechanical instruments to further control the shape of all the elements of their Bonsai.
• Defoliation: This technique is used mostly on deciduous species in order to achieve the short term dwarfing of their foliage.
• Deadwood techniques: These are employed only by skillful deciduous gardeners and help the trees achieve a simulated maturity.

Bonsai Trees Tools and Materials

Like most timeless disciplines, the art of growing Bonsai can be accomplished relatively simply, but takes years of practice to truly master. The tools required for it are a perfect example of this, with some people starting their Bonsai experience with no more than just a leaf cutter, while experts and more dedicated individuals sometimes make use of an entire arsenal of tools.

Now, while none of these extremes is common, it is still recommended for anyone interested in this discipline to know about all the available tools out there, so as to make an informed decision about which ones to use. Its is also a great idea to start with the basic tools, and then to acquire more that become necessary to the gardener as he or she gains skill and experience.

The first material that one needs to get in order to start growing Bonsai is the tree specimen itself, followed by a clay pot and a specific type of soil. After those, the most important tools or growing Bonsai are:

• A traditional leaf cutter with a long handle for pruning branches.
• A long shear, for medium sized branches.
• Butterfly shear, for pruning small branches as well as roots.
• A small shear for tree defoliation
• Small and large knob cutter for creating deep, hollow wounds on the Bonsai
• Small concave cutter that helps with the pruning of medium-sized branches.
• Large Bonsai concave cutter to prune large branches.
• Wire cutter.
• Jin tool.
• Rade.
• Root-hook that helps repotting Bonsai trees.
• Copper brush, for trunk cleaning.
• Cocos brush, for cleaning ground surfaces.
• Trunk benders.

Bonsai Tree Style & Shaping

One of the most important ones is that despite being small trees, Bonsai require a lot more care and attention than any “regular” tree. Bonsai in general are smaller, shorter, lighter and far more fragile than any tree, with roots that are around just 25cm long, which pale when compared to the strong meter-long roots that the average tree has.

This size difference has a great impact on a Bonsai’s maturation, nutrition, pest resistance and many other aspects of their biology, all of which in turn makes tending for their long-term health somewhat more difficult than when performing any other gardening task. This is why some special care techniques are necessary for growing a Bonsai. Here are some of them.

• Watering: Watering must be done in regular intervals, but it will be highly dependent on the specific requirements of each Bonsai species.
• Repotting: This must be done at regular intervals as well, and in this case the frequency is dictated by the specific resistance and age of each tree.
• Tools: Use of the appropriate tools when taking care of a Bonsai is essential.
• Soil: Although soil composition is usually the same for the vast majority of Bonsai, some particular species require of specific compositions, so gardeners are advised to learn about this beforehand.
• Indoor survival: As is the case with the soil, some species of Bonsai can easily survive inside a house, but there are some that can’t, which makes it very important for gardeners to learn as much as they can about their specific Bonsai trees.

Best Bonsai Trees for Beginners

Japanese Red Maple Bonsai Tree

One of the most recommended bonsai starter trees is the Japanese Red Maple bonsai tree. Many people adore this bonsai starter tree because during the spring and autumn months, the leaves turn into vibrant shades of orange and red. During the summer months, the leaves turn a deep red. This bonsai tree stands very upright and the leaves made be cut down to less than an inch.  

Sea Grape Bonsai Tree

The Sea Grape bonsai tree is another perfect example of a bonsai starter tree. It grows mainly long the southern parts of Florida and is known as being a shrubby, shoreline tree. However, this bonsai starter tree remains unique because, while its leaves are often extremely large, they can be easily cut down up to one and a half inches, but still look amazing. Many like the Sea Grape bonsai tree also because the leaves will heal themselves after they are cut, resulting in an unusual and spectacular red edging. It is a hardy bonsai tree and can be trained to sit in a number of different styles, which is why it is perfect as a bonsai starter tree.

Chinese Elm Bonsai Tree

Another great bonsai starter tree for beginners is the Chinese Elm bonsai tree. The Chinese Elm bonsai tree is what everyone pictures when they think about what a bonsai tree characteristically looks like. This type of bonsai starter tree is perfect because, unlike other bonsai starter trees, which thrive better either outdoors or indoors, the Chinese Elm bonsai tree can thrive in either condition. Many people also enjoy this type of bonsai tree for its shape and stunning foliage. While this tree does require sunlight during the summer months, it does require a bit of dormancy during the winter months.

Ideal Plants For Bonsai

In theory, any plant can be trained to be a Bonsai. When choosing a plant for longevity, it is best to select a variety that is known for its adaptability and strength. Depending on the aesthetics and style either deciduous or evergreen trees can be used. Consideration should also be taken based on the skill level of the grower.

Preferred evergreen plants:

- Pine

- Pomegranate

- Holly

- Fig

- Azalea

- Cypress

- Cedar

Preferred deciduous plants:

- Maple

- Beech

- Cherry

These plants have been used to create beautiful Bonsai plants throughout history and many are known to be able to live beyond the lifespan of their wild counterparts. Ensuring the plant is well cared for and free of stress and disease can help the Bonsai not only outlive its natural lifespan, but possibly survive and even thrive for several human generations as well.

Preserved Bonsai

Preserved Bonsai Trees

Cultivating a Bonsai tree is a job unto itself, and while many like to appreciate the beauty of a Bonsai, most don’t have the time to go through the work and upkeep that a real Bonsai requires. That is one of the reasons why Bonsai experts developed a way to preserve Bonsai trees in order to maintain its beauty without requiring additional care.

For those who want to have a real Bonsai tree on display in their home but don’t have the time or desire to cultivate one themselves, mature Bonsai trees can actually be purchased in stores and online. However, even mature Bonsai trees will require time and attention in order to maintain its gorgeous appearance.

Purchasing a mature Bonsai Tree is the perfect way to bring the beauty and elegance of Bonsai into a home without having to go through the work that growing a Bonsai tree requires. These Bonsai trees are the perfect way to introduce oneself to the Bonsai tradition, while also learning the skills necessary to create one.

Whether purchasing a starter kit or purchasing Bonsai tools and accessories separately, it is important that Bonsai tree growers own the proper tools needed to create a Bonsai. These tools are absolutely essential to creating a gorgeous tree and achieving the proper shape and size. Tools and accessories can be purchased individually or, in some cases, as sets.

Bonsai Trees

Evergreen Bonsai Trees

Evergreen species are a popular choice when it comes to cultivating a Bonsai tree. One reason is because evergreen trees don’t lose their foliage, which enables them to look beautiful all year round. They are also extremely hardy and can withstand extreme conditions. Evergreen trees also have unique appearances that go well with certain Bonsai styles and forms.

Broadleaf Bonsai Trees

Broadleaf Bonsai are perhaps one of the most versatile of Bonsai groups. Bonsai growers love them because they have a wide range of seasonal interest. Many have gorgeous leaf shapes, sizes, textures and colors while also offering spring foliage and flowers. Though they may not keep their foliage in the winter, broadleaf Bonsai usually have gorgeous fine branches in the winter, which hold their own special type of beauty.

Tropical Bonsai Trees

There are many types of tropical Bonsai trees. These trees offer gorgeous foliage and flowers, but often times require special attention, especially if living in a colder climate where the tree isn’t hardy. Tropical Bonsai trees are frequently placed indoors as a result of their sensitivity to colder climates. Sweet Plum is one of the most popular of indoor Bonsai.

Flowering Bonsai Trees

Whether looking to add color to a home or garden, flowering Bonsai trees are a popular choice. Many even use flowering Bonsai as table centerpieces because of their unique shapes and gorgeous flowers. No two flowering Bonsais are the same, which make them a favorite among Bonsai artists. Flowering Chinese Perfume Bonsai and Japanese Flowering Quince tree are two popular choices.

Coniferous Bonsai Trees

Conifers are also popular choices for Bonsai trees, however almost all are considered to be outdoor bonsai because they cannot be grown successfully indoors. Because of how hardy conifers can be when acclimated to cold environments, they make for popular choices in colder regions. They are also quite resilient to pests, which is another bonus for Bonsai artists who have enough to worry about without adding pests and diseases to the mix.

Deciduous Bonsai Trees

Deciduous means that the trees will drop their leaves in the winter and regrow them come springtime. While they do drop their leaves in the winter, their branches provide a certain eerie beauty in the winter that goes well with the Bonsai culture. Popular types of deciduous Bonsai trees include Japanese Maple, Dwarf Crabapple, Trident Maple, Japanese Beech, Zelkova, and some Elm varieties, just to name a few.